I got into Bali on the 28th of March. Arrived at the airport to see billboards of surf advertisments, pamphlet racks filled by surf tourism, and hungry surf donkeys waiting for their decks to come out onto the conveyer belt. After getting begged for a tip by an airport customs imposter who carried my bag 5 steps to customs, I broke free, out of the swarms to meet Brett and Lora, who were waiting outside. Good times, reunited with some sunshine coast kids. I found a place in Kuta (the main surf junkie, business oriented, tourist trap of Bali) about a 1 minute walk from Kuta beach which has a nice beach break, and 30 seconds from Un's Hotel/The Balcony Restaurant, the hot spot that Lora's friend's family owns and where it all goes down. My place - $4/night including breakfast. I'm set.
The Balcony was my central scene. Some of you may know it as the place Brett performed at here in Bali - a sick show too apparently (Wilderness Crew is blowing up in Bali, requested constantly by pros and industry cats). Posted on the walls are photos of all the pro surfers that have eaten there (the wall is full), and boards that pros have donated - Taj, Parko, Andy, and a Slater board with a broken nose in the bathroom. I met a few surfers - Rob Machado, Benji Weatherly, Mikala Jones, and a lot of the Bali rippers. It's a humbling scene - these guys are celebrities to anyone that surfs, but it's not like the trainwreck scene that is Hollywood whatsoever. It's a crazy trip though, because you're chilling with a guy like Machado, and you look down into the street and there's a huge Hurley ad with him on it. It was def. a cool experience, and you feel like you're at the heart of surf culture for real.
A typical day was spent going up to the Balcony, ordering an avacado juice, using the phone to call Brett/Lora and then heading out to the beach, sitting in loungers, eating Tea Pat (tofu dish in peanut sauce) and surfing the beach/reef breaks (Bali's southern coast has 100s of breaks, some being right on the shore, others being a boatride away to outer reefs, and known as some of the best waves in the world, especially the cliffs that are home to Balangan, Dreamland, Padang Padang, Impossibles, and Uluwatu). There was a break in that routine when we went NW to Amed and did some snorkelling, and to Ubud, where we fed some monkeys at monkey forest. One of these little guys actually took my water bottle, twisted it open, and tilted the bottle up for a sip!! ehehMonkeys these days....
Besides the surf, what sets Bali apart from most other spots in Indo, is the culture and religion though. Three times a day everyone sets out Hindu offerings, which are handmade small coconut leaf baskets with flowers, inscence and food in them, and are placed outside shops, or on roads. The offerings are for the gods and spirits and are supposed to bring prosperity and good health to families. Also, temples, and statues are seen everywhere, even in the heart of shoptillyoudrop Kuta. Traditional Balinese houses look like temples as well. There's a huge gateway entrance with a stone carved backing right behind it to keep away evil spirits, and individual stone huts for every part of the house, with stone paths cutting through the lawn, going from hut to hut. There's a lot of tradition, and a lot of family love. Ceremonies for deaths and births can be held by whole communities of people wearing traditional balinese clothing for days. It's a good vibe, and a nice atmosphere.
Pictures: 1) Kuta Square, 2) Dreamland, looking towards Padang Padang, Impossibles, and Uluwatu, 3) Nusa Dua, lounger and tea pat anyone? 4) From Rizal's house on the Bookit (the "toe" or the "nipple" - the south tip) looking down on the airport (the middle stretch of land) and Kuta and Kuta beach 5) Hmm.. this Balangan wave looks rippable.
3 comments:
now we're talking! Nice shots Adam! I am very jealous. I am glad you got to go off and do your surf thang. That is so crazy that you met the surf celebs!!! We have some pics to compare. I think we may have to get the boards out when you get back. However, i don't think anything compares to the non wetsuit feeling... so liberating!! I can't believe you are all coming home soon! I look forward to talking about your bonding with the ocean. xoxox
damn so jealous.
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